Contributed by Chez Vous Team of Associate Salon Directors: Echo Er, Khim Toh, Jamie Seah, Shawn Chia, Sam Chok and Veyond Chong
Many of us are catching the Korean perm wave, but taking on a new hairstyle is a long term commitment.
Before you sink in the money and put your precious tresses to curl, here are some tips straight from the Chez Vous Team of Associate Salon Directors on how to make the most of out of your perm.
Know anyone with lifeless curls to fix, quote "Wellnessly" and get to enjoy 10% off all Chez Vous hair services! Terms & Conditions apply.
PART 2: DAMAGED, UGLY OR LIFELESS LOOKING PERM
Hoping to have Korean or Japanese inspired curls, but ended up looking like a poodle? You’re not alone. Many women in Singapore have been through that. There are 3 broad reasons why disastrous perm occurs.
REASON 1: The problem might lie in the stylist’s or technician’s competency, skills, knowledge or the lack in understanding of customers’ requirements.
> Haircuts That Do Not Accentuate or Compliment The Perm:
Any chemical service (even good ones) must be complemented by the correct haircut. Unfortunately, through Chez Vous Expertligent Fix You Programme, we have seen many whose bad haircut is the main reason that undermine the perm. To design a cut that accentuates the perm require skills and experience.
> “Auntie Curls” or Small Tight Curls:
As part of Chez Vous Expertligent Fix You Programme, we have received “victims” who requested for young looking Korean inspired curls, but the stylists gave them a 80s-inspired ringlet perm. This is because the stylist opt to use a small rod size and wind it up above the ears. Also, we have seen hair that is badly “bent” or have unsightly “rubber band marks” due to incorrect placements of rods and “rubber band”.
Fixed by Chez Vous
> Over or Under Processed Hair:
When it comes to over processing - be it lotion’s strength, processing time, heat applied - that’s every customers’ nightmare. Yes, over processing leads to “fried” hair. When perming lotion is applied to hair, it will swell, causing disulphide bonds in our hair to split. Without breaking the hair bonds, hair cannot be reshaped. This process eats away the hair proteins, which causes damage and degeneration. When hair is over processed or wrongly processed, breakage will occur and hair will be “fried”. Without disulphide bonds, hair can no longer be fixed, reshaped, retexturized or remedied as there are “no more” bonds for a hair stylist to work with. The only way out will be to cut away the damaged portion and remodel the hairstyle.
This is why many stylists choose to be conservative and prefer to under process the hair for most perm services to avoid such issues. Under processing might undermine the strength and “bounce” of the curls, but this can be fixed through a re-perm.
Fixed by Chez Vous
Tip: Choose A Stylist That Is Well Versed In Perm
Every stylist have their strengths. Do your research well and select the stylist that best suits you. If you are comfortable with your existing stylist, we will recommend that you stay put. Having a stylist that understands your hair well, knows your preference and previous chemical history is important. Such in-depth understanding can enable the stylist to better decide which type of perm process, lotion and style suits you best.
REASON 2: More often than not, stylists or customers choose to undergo perm services even when the hair is not suited for a Perm.
Disasters always happen when stylists or customers choose to take the unnecessary risk of perming the hair even when the hair is not healthy enough for a perm. When hair is not thick or healthy enough, many perm services may result in “fried” hair; frizzy hair; curls that are lifeless (i.e. not curly or “bouncy”); or damaged looking.
At times, one’s hair might look seemingly “healthy” – smooth, shiny and soft due to regular conditioning; but in fact the hair has lost its elasticity and strength internally (i.e. internally damaged, weak or fragile). In such cases, a stylist must assess the hair based on prior history and chemical services done to the hair.
Fixed by Chez Vous
Many times, we hear new customers complaining to us that their previous stylists can no longer “perm their hair well”. They noticed that the quality of their subsequent perms started to deterioriate from their beautiful first perm. Usually at Chez Vous, we will have to explain to the customer that the reason behind the deterioration is due to the decline of the health of their hair. As a rule of thumb, you will need internally strong and healthy hair (preferably virgin or unprocessed hair) to have beautiful curls after a chemical perm. Without disulphide bonds and good hair elasticity, your hair cannot achieve the beautiful curls you desire.
Tip #1: Do NOT Perm if
> 1. Your hair was previously pre-lightened or rebonded
We dare say that the success rate for pre-lightened or rebonded hair undergoing through a digital perm process is seriously close to zero.
> 2. Your hair was digitally-permed hair more than twice a year, or consecutively permed for more than 2 years
Take the opportunity to change your hairstyle and let your hair rest. Like what we always tell our guests, we will rather you have a short-mid length bob than to have unhealthy looking “curls”. If you are a perm addict that cannot do without perming your hair, try cold perm instead of digital perm. It is less damaging.
> 3. Your hair is damaged, dry or fine
Focus on improving your hair texture first before perming again. These hair types tend to result in lifeless looking perm results as the hair does not have sufficient elasticity.
Tip #2: Focus on Strengthening Haircare & In-salon Treatments
Alternate your moisturising haircare and treatments with protein-rich treatments to rebuild your hair internally. All stylists will really appreciate guests who prep their hair intensively 2 weeks before any chemical services. This reduces any risk significantly.
So, the next time you do any chemical services, indulge your hair with either Redken Extreme CAT or Goldwell Kerasilk Deep Smoothing Mask daily, 2 weeks before you visit the salon.
Tip #3: Listen to Your Stylist
Lastly, listen to your stylist especially when they forbid you from doing a particular chemical service or having a particular style. You only have one bunch of hair, why risk it?
REASON 3: Mismatch between Expectations & Reality.
We have heard women telling us that they need a perm to create the “celebrity-worthy perm” look seen in the magazines or fashion catalogues. But nothing could be further from the truth! Most curls seen on magazines ad TV are created through heat-styling, not chemical perm. In fact, many curls seen on balayaged hair models and celebrities are not attainable through chemical perm.
Of course, for certain styles, chemical perm can help to better achieve the look; but please do not expect that “celebrity-worthy perm” to appear without any styling or effort spent on maintenance.
Tip #1: Use Photos During Consultation
We always appreciate customers who bring photos of their desired look during consultation. It makes it easier for stylist to accurately advise them on whether the style is attainable or suitable for them; and the post-service styling and maintenance required.
Tip #2: Avoid Using Supposedly “Universal” Hair Terms
Hair terms like “gentle waves”, “beach waves”, “Korean curls”, “Volume Perm” or “Bed Hair” mean different things to different people. Unfortunately, the same applies for professionals within the hair industry. Such marketing terms are vague; hence use photos whenever possible.
Fixed by Chez Vous
Takashimaya Ngee Ann City Podium
391 Orchard Road, #05-05, S238872